Feel free to skip any of the reading/steps if you're a seasoned pro, I'm gearing this towards a new but educated DIYer. These are the general steps, I'll go into my story, the gotchas and some more tips at the end:


1) Remove the rear wheels


  • Take the torque off the lug nuts, just enough so they turn easily
  • Jack the vehicle up so the wheels are 1 cm or more off the ground
  • Put the vehicle down on jack stands
  • Take the lugs off, then the wheels

2) Remove the top locking nut from the stabilizer link




  • Use penetrating oil if they are at all rusted
  • Plan to replace the links if you have ANY slippage with the hex wrench
  • 14mm ratcheting hex wrench turns the nut
  • 5mm hex wrench prevents the bolt from moving while you turn it

3) Remove the bottom (Flange nut) - ONLY IF REPLACING END LINK

  • Same tools and procedure as above


4) Remove the flange bolts


  • Use penetrating oil if they are at ALL rusted
  • I believe this was a 12mm socket

5) Remove Stabilizer bar

6) Reinstall stabilizer bar

  • Install new bushings and bushing holders
  • Loosely install flange bolts
  • Line up stabilizer links evenly through bar and mounting holes
  • Install new locking and flange nuts loosely

7) Tighten bolts

  • Tighten connectors to roughly 10ft lb
    • Top stabilizer nut
    • Lower stabilizer nut
    • Flange bolts
  • Tighten connectors to appropriate torque
    • Top stabilizer nut
    • Lower stabilizer nut
    • Flange bolts

8) Reinstall wheels

  • Add each lug nut (on the bolt but loose) to each wheel in a star pattern
  • Tighten each lug (very little torque) in a star pattern

9) Lower vehicle

10) Tighten all lugs to 80 ft lb in a star pattern

11) Re-tighten stabilizer connectors to appropriate torque

  • Top stabilizer nut
  • Lower stabilizer nut
  • Flange bolts

12) "Drive around for 5 minutes" . . . do 5 minutes, then do a 30-60 minute trip and check again

13) Re-tighten stabilizer connectors to appropriate torque

  • Top stabilizer nut
  • Lower stabilizer nut
  • Flange bolts

I started out with the flange bolts and sheared one off with a normal hand ratchet;I'd suggest using penetrating oil and replace the flange bolts if they're at all rusted before going in seriously for a replacement. It cost me $50 to have the bolt drilled out . . . learn from my mistakes.

Proper installation says to jack the vehicle up, but I believe another user did this without putting the vehicle in the air, AND it does appear to be easier to re-thread the end links with at least some pressure on the suspension. It's up to you, but it's rather cumbersome to get around the muffler if the end links are not in perfect shape.




My end links were pretty much destroyed to start with. Corrosion had done in the already thin wall of the hex end of the bolts, and torqueing on them made them unusable. On the first end link, I was able to get the stuck link off by immobilizing it with some needle-nosed vice grips. I was able to bite into the "head" (a rib actually) of it near the bushing/sheathing. I wasn't so lucky on the second one and was forced to use a hacksaw to take it off.